Saipal Himal is one of the least-visited 7,000-metre peaks in Nepal. At 7,031 metres (23,068 ft), it is the second-highest mountain in far-western Nepal, after Api Himal (7,132 m). It rises on the border of Bajhang and Humla districts, straddling Sudurpashchim and Karnali provinces, and locals say its shape resembles a sleeping golden ox.
This is genuinely off-the-beaten-path terrain. Fewer than a handful of expeditions have ever summited it, and the base-camp trek sees a tiny fraction of the traffic that Everest or Annapurna get. This guide covers what you actually need to plan a trip: the route, the real permit costs, the best season, and honest notes on how hard the logistics are.
Permit fees and trekking rules last verified: July 2026. Restricted-area rules in Nepal changed in March 2026 always confirm current fees with the Department of Immigration or your agency before booking.
Saipal Himal in Bajhang: Image Credit goes to Remesh Jethara
Quick Facts
| Elevation | 7,031 m (23,068 ft) |
| Rank | 2nd highest in far-west Nepal (after Api Himal, 7,132 m) |
| Range | Gurans / Saipal Himal |
| Districts | Bajhang (Sudurpashchim) & Humla (Karnali) |
| First ascent | 21 October 1963 — Katsutoshi Hirabayashi & Pasang Phutar Sherpa (Japanese Doshisha University expedition) |
| Base camp altitude | ~4,100–4,800 m (varies by route) |
| Trek duration | 17–21 days from Simikot; 10–12 days trekking from Chainpur |
| Permit type | Restricted Area Permit (guide + agency mandatory) |
Where Is Saipal Himal?
Saipal sits in the Gurans Himal (also called the Saipal range), in the extreme north-west of Nepal near the Tibetan border. The peak lies on the boundary between Bajhang district (Sudurpashchim Province) and Humla district (Karnali Province).
Because it straddles two districts, there are base camps on different sides north, south, and east at roughly 4,100 to 4,800 metres. The Ranisain area (an eastern approach in the Bajura direction), at about 3,500 metres, is sometimes described as one of the lowest and most scenic base-camp approaches in the region.
Saipal Himal vs Api Himal
These two peaks are often confused because they dominate the same corner of Nepal. The simple version:
- Api Himal — 7,132 m, the highest peak in far-west Nepal.
- Saipal Himal — 7,031 m, the second-highest.
Both sit in Sudurpashchim’s remote north-west, both are rarely climbed, and both anchor off-the-beaten-path treks. If you’re choosing between them, Api’s base-camp trek is slightly more established; Saipal is even quieter.
The First Ascent
Saipal was first attempted in 1953 by Austrian Dr Herbert Tichy, whose expedition failed on logistics. The first successful ascent came a decade later: on 21 October 1963, Katsutoshi Hirabayashi and Pasang Phutar Sherpa reached the summit via the south side, as part of a Japanese Doshisha University expedition. In the six decades since, only a handful of ascents have been recorded a measure of just how remote this mountain is.
Saipal Himal Base Camp Trek
The base-camp trek is the realistic goal for most travellers you don’t need mountaineering skills to reach base camp, though you do need to be fit and prepared for camping in remote terrain.
Two common approaches:
- From Simikot (Humla / Karnali side): Fly Kathmandu → Nepalgunj → Simikot, then trek north. This is the more common expedition approach; total trip 17–21 days.
- From Chainpur (Bajhang / Sudurpashchim side): Fly or drive to Chainpur, then trek 10–12 days via villages like Talkot and Dhuli toward base camp.
Teahouses are scarce beyond the lower villages, so most of the route is camping. That means a supported trip guide, porters, cook, and gear rather than a solo teahouse walk.
West Saipal Base Camp Trek : Images Credit Goes to Jasper Neupane on Dream Line
Suggested Itinerary (Chainpur / Bajhang side ~12 days trekking)
| Day | Route | Approx. Altitude |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Kathmandu → Nepalgunj (flight) | 150 m |
| 2 | Nepalgunj → Chainpur (flight or jeep) | 1,290 m |
| 3 | Chainpur → Talkot | 1,800 m |
| 4 | Talkot → Dhuli | 2,300 m |
| 5 | Dhuli → higher camp | 3,100 m |
| 6 | Trek toward Saipal Base Camp | 3,600 m+ |
| 7 | Base Camp exploration / acclimatisation | 4,100–4,800 m |
| 8–12 | Return via same route | — |
This is a planning outline, not a fixed schedule. Actual days depend on which base camp, weather, and your agency’s route. Build in spare days for weather-delayed flights to/from remote airstrips.
Permits: What You Actually Need
This is the part most casual guides get wrong. Saipal is inside a restricted area, so a standard TIMS card is not sufficient.
Restricted Area Permit Bajhang (Kanda, Saipal, Dhuli areas):
- USD 90 per person for the first 7 days
- USD 15 per person per day after that
On the Humla side, if your route passes through Humla’s restricted zone, that permit is USD 50 for the first week + USD 7/day after.
Other requirements:
- A licensed Nepali guide is mandatory. Since the March 2026 rule change, solo foreign trekkers can apply, but still only through a registered agency and with a guide.
- Depending on the route, a conservation area / national park entry (e.g. Khaptad) may also apply.
- Permits are issued via the Department of Immigration and must be arranged by a registered trekking agency you cannot get a restricted-area permit independently.
Note: In August 2024 Nepal waived the climbing royalty (summit fee) for Saipal and dozens of other peaks through 2027 to promote remote tourism. That waiver is for the mountaineering royalty, not the restricted-area trekking permit above the RAP fee still applies.
Best Season
| Season | Conditions |
|---|---|
| Spring (Mar–May) | Stable weather, rhododendron bloom, clear skies. Best overall. |
| Autumn (Sep–Nov) | Best mountain visibility, cool and dry. The other prime window. |
| Winter (Dec–Feb) | Very cold, heavy snow, high passes often blocked. Not recommended. |
| Monsoon (Jun–Aug) | Landslides, flight delays, leeches. Avoid. |
Spring and autumn are the only two realistic windows. Everything else fights you on weather or road/flight access.
What to Pack
Because most of this trek is camped and remote, self-sufficiency matters more than on commercial trails:
- Four-season sleeping bag and insulated mat (nights drop below freezing at base camp)
- Layering system: base layers, insulated mid-layer, waterproof shell
- Sturdy broken-in trekking boots + camp shoes
- Water purification (filter + tablets) treated water only
- Headlamp, power bank/solar charger (no grid power for days)
- Basic first-aid + personal medication + altitude awareness (Diamox on medical advice)
- Cash in NPR no ATMs on the route
- NTC SIM works in patches; a satellite phone (usually carried by the agency) is the real emergency link
How to Get There
From Kathmandu, fly to Nepalgunj (about 1 hour), then take a second flight to either Simikot (Humla) or Chainpur (Bajhang). The Nepalgunj–Simikot leg is about 45 minutes over rugged terrain, and both mountain airstrips are weather-dependent delays of a day or more are normal. Overland alternatives from Nepalgunj to Chainpur run 12–14 hours on rough mountain road.
Given the remoteness, poor infrastructure, and mandatory-guide rules, this is a trek to do through a well-organised agency with guides, porters, and full camping logistics not a DIY trip.
FAQs
How high is Saipal Himal? Saipal Himal is 7,031 metres (23,068 ft) the second-highest peak in far-western Nepal after Api Himal (7,132 m).
Which province is Saipal Himal in? It sits on the border of Bajhang district (Sudurpashchim Province) and Humla district (Karnali Province).
Do I need a permit for the Saipal Himal trek? Yes. It’s a restricted area. You need a Restricted Area Permit (Bajhang: USD 90 for the first 7 days, then USD 15/day), plus a licensed guide arranged through a registered agency. A standalone TIMS card is not enough.
Can I trek Saipal Himal solo? Since March 2026, solo foreign trekkers can apply for the restricted-area permit but you still must book through a registered agency and trek with a licensed guide.
When is the best time to trek Saipal Himal? Spring (March–May) and autumn (September–November). Winter is snow-blocked; monsoon brings landslides and flight delays.
How long does the Saipal Base Camp trek take? Around 17–21 days total from Kathmandu via Simikot, or 10–12 days of trekking from Chainpur, plus flight buffer days.
Has Saipal Himal been climbed? Yes, but rarely. First ascent was 21 October 1963 by a Japanese expedition; only a handful of summits have been recorded since.