Kathmandu is more than just the cultural and historical heart of Nepal it is also one of South Asia’s most exciting food destinations. From centuries-old Newari recipes to steaming bowls of Tibetan noodle soup and bustling street food markets, the Nepalese capital offers an unforgettable culinary experience for visitors and locals alike. If you’re searching for the best food in Kathmandu, you’ll quickly discover that the city is a paradise for food lovers.
The Kathmandu Valley has been a major trading and cultural center for centuries. As a result, its cuisine reflects influences from Nepali, Newari, Tibetan, Indian, and even Chinese culinary traditions. This rich blend of cultures has created a food scene unlike any other in the Himalayas.
One of the reasons travelers love exploring the best food in Kathmandu is the sheer variety available. Whether you’re wandering through the busy alleys of Asan Bazaar, enjoying traditional dishes in Basantapur, dining in the heritage streets of Patan, or visiting trendy cafés in Thamel, you’ll encounter flavors that tell the story of Nepal’s diverse communities.
Food in Kathmandu is deeply connected to culture and tradition. Many dishes have religious significance, while others are prepared specifically for festivals and family celebrations. Traditional Newari cuisine, in particular, remains an essential part of the valley’s identity and offers some of the most unique flavors found anywhere in Nepal.
The city also caters to modern tastes. Alongside traditional foods, Kathmandu is home to a growing number of restaurants, bakeries, coffee shops, and international eateries. However, most visitors agree that the true magic lies in tasting authentic local dishes that have been enjoyed for generations.
From momo and dal bhat to chatamari, choila, yomari, and sekuwa, this guide explores the best food in Kathmandu and explains why these dishes have become beloved symbols of Nepalese culture. Whether you’re a first-time visitor or a returning traveler, these foods deserve a place on your Kathmandu bucket list.
Why Kathmandu Is a Paradise for Food Lovers
When discussing the best food in Kathmandu, it is impossible to overlook the city’s extraordinary culinary diversity. Kathmandu is not only Nepal’s capital but also its most important cultural crossroads. People from different ethnic communities, regions, and backgrounds have lived and traded here for centuries, creating a vibrant and constantly evolving food culture.
One of Kathmandu’s greatest culinary strengths is its diversity. The city is home to the indigenous Newar community, whose cuisine is widely regarded as some of the most sophisticated and flavorful in Nepal. Traditional Newari dishes feature unique spices, preparation techniques, and ingredients that cannot easily be found elsewhere.
The influence of neighboring Tibet is also evident throughout the city. Popular foods such as momo and thukpa have become staples of everyday life in Kathmandu. At the same time, Indian culinary influences contribute to the popularity of curries, sweets, and street snacks found throughout local markets.
The city’s food culture thrives in both traditional and modern settings. Ancient marketplaces like Ason offer authentic street food experiences where locals gather daily. Meanwhile, neighborhoods such as Thamel have become culinary hubs where travelers can sample both traditional Nepalese dishes and international cuisine.
Another reason Kathmandu is famous for its food is affordability. Visitors can enjoy some of the food in Kathmandu without spending large amounts of money. Delicious meals are available at family-run eateries, local tea houses, street stalls, and heritage restaurants throughout the valley.
Festivals also play an important role in Kathmandu’s culinary identity. Special dishes are prepared during celebrations such as Dashain, Tihar, Indra Jatra, and Yomari Punhi. These events provide visitors with opportunities to experience traditional foods that may not be available year-round.
Food is deeply woven into daily life in Kathmandu. Meals are often social occasions that bring families and communities together. Hospitality is highly valued, and visitors are frequently welcomed with generous servings of local specialties.
For travelers seeking authentic cultural experiences, exploring the food in Kathmandu offers one of the most rewarding ways to understand the city’s history, traditions, and people.
Momo – The Most Famous Food in Kathmandu
No discussion of the best food in Kathmandu would be complete without mentioning momo. Widely considered Nepal’s most beloved food, momo has become a cultural icon that is enjoyed by people of all ages across the country.
Momo is a type of dumpling believed to have Tibetan origins. Over time, it evolved into a distinctly Nepalese dish and became one of the most recognizable examples of Kathmandu local food. Today, momo can be found everywhere from luxury restaurants and family kitchens to roadside stalls and busy street markets.
Traditional momo consists of a thin dough wrapper filled with minced meat or vegetables. Popular fillings include buffalo meat, chicken, pork, and mixed vegetables. The dumplings are typically steamed, although fried versions have also become extremely popular.
Momo
One of the reasons momo ranks among the best food in Kathmandu is its versatility. There are numerous regional and local variations. Jhol momo is served with a flavorful soup-like sauce, while C momo is stir-fried with spicy seasonings and vegetables. Kothey momo, which is pan-fried on one side, offers another unique texture and flavor profile.
The accompanying dipping sauce is equally important. Made with tomatoes, sesame seeds, garlic, chili peppers, and local spices, the sauce enhances the flavor of the dumplings and varies from restaurant to restaurant.
For many travelers, trying momo is their first introduction to traditional food in Kathmandu. The dish is affordable, widely available, and suitable for almost any meal of the day. Families often gather around plates of momo during celebrations, making it both a comfort food and a social experience.
Momo’s popularity extends beyond Nepal. In recent years, Nepalese communities around the world have introduced the dish to international audiences, helping momo gain global recognition.
Whether enjoyed in a bustling street market or a traditional restaurant, momo remains one of the absolute highlights of the food in Kathmandu and a must-try dish for every visitor.
Dal Bhat – Nepal’s National Meal
Among all examples of traditional food in Kathmandu, few dishes are as important as dal bhat. Often described as the backbone of Nepalese cuisine, dal bhat is more than just a meal it is a daily tradition that sustains millions of people across the country.
The phrase “dal bhat” refers to two essential components: dal (lentil soup) and bhat (steamed rice). However, a complete dal bhat meal typically includes a variety of side dishes such as vegetable curry, pickles, spinach, seasonal vegetables, and meat curries.
Dal bhat is widely regarded as one of the best food in Kathmandu options because it offers a balanced combination of carbohydrates, protein, vitamins, and minerals. This nutritional value makes it a favorite among locals, trekkers, and travelers alike.
Dal Bhat
One of the most unique aspects of dal bhat is the tradition of unlimited refills. Many restaurants and local eateries throughout Kathmandu offer additional servings of rice and lentil soup, reflecting Nepalese hospitality and generosity.
Different communities prepare dal bhat in slightly different ways. Newari, Brahmin, Gurung, Tamang, and other ethnic groups each contribute their own flavors and cooking styles. As a result, visitors can experience multiple variations of the same dish while exploring Kathmandu.
Dal bhat is also deeply connected to Nepalese culture. Families often gather around the dining table to share this meal, and it plays an important role in festivals, celebrations, and daily life.
For travelers wondering what to eat in Kathmandu, dal bhat provides an authentic introduction to Nepalese cuisine. Its simplicity, nutritional value, and cultural significance make it one of the most important foods in the country.
Even though Kathmandu offers countless dining options, dal bhat continues to hold a special place in the hearts of locals. For many people, no exploration of the best food in Kathmandu is complete without experiencing Nepal’s iconic national meal.
Newari Khaja Set – The Ultimate Traditional Food in Kathmandu
When people search for the best food in Kathmandu, they often discover that some of the city’s most authentic culinary experiences come from Newari cuisine. Among the many traditional dishes of the Kathmandu Valley, the Newari Khaja Set stands out as one of the most complete and culturally significant meals you can try.
The Newar community is the indigenous population of the Kathmandu Valley and has developed one of Nepal’s richest food traditions. A Newari Khaja Set is not a single dish but rather a carefully arranged assortment of foods that showcase the diversity of Newari cooking. Depending on the restaurant or household, the set may include beaten rice (chiura), choila, bara, spicy potatoes, boiled soybeans, pickles, buffalo meat dishes, black-eyed beans, and seasonal vegetables.
One reason the Newari Khaja Set is considered among the best food in Kathmandu is the incredible variety of flavors and textures it offers. Diners can enjoy smoky grilled meats, crunchy beaten rice, spicy chutneys, fermented ingredients, and aromatic spices all in a single meal.
Newari Khaja Set
Traditionally, Newari food plays a major role in festivals, family gatherings, weddings, and religious ceremonies. Many dishes included in the khaja set have been prepared for generations and continue to reflect the history and culture of the Kathmandu Valley.
The preparation process often involves recipes that have been passed down through families for centuries. This dedication to tradition is one reason why many food enthusiasts consider Newari cuisine one of the highlights of Kathmandu local food.
Today, visitors can find excellent Newari Khaja Sets in areas such as Kirtipur, Patan, Bhaktapur, and traditional restaurants throughout Kathmandu. Many travelers specifically seek out these meals to experience authentic traditional food in Kathmandu beyond the more internationally known dishes like momo.
For those looking to understand Nepalese culture through food, a Newari Khaja Set provides one of the most complete culinary experiences available. It combines history, tradition, flavor, and hospitality in a way that few meals can match.
Without question, the Newari Khaja Set deserves a place among the best food in Kathmandu and should be on every visitor’s must-try list.
Chatamari – The Nepali Pizza of Kathmandu
Among the many unique dishes that define the best food in Kathmandu, Chatamari occupies a special place. Often referred to as the “Nepali pizza,” Chatamari is a traditional Newari dish that combines simple ingredients with rich flavors and cultural significance.
Chatamari is made from a thin rice flour batter spread into a circular shape and cooked until slightly crisp. Various toppings are then added, including minced buffalo meat, eggs, vegetables, onions, spices, and herbs. While comparisons to pizza are common because of its appearance, Chatamari has a completely distinct taste and texture.
The dish originated within the Newar community of the Kathmandu Valley and has been enjoyed for centuries. Historically, Chatamari was often prepared during festivals, family gatherings, and special occasions. Today, it has become one of the most recognizable examples of traditional food in Kathmandu.
Chatamari
One reason Chatamari ranks among the best food in Kathmandu is its versatility. Vegetarian versions are widely available, while meat lovers can choose from buffalo, chicken, or mixed toppings. Modern restaurants have even introduced creative variations featuring cheese and international flavors.
Unlike many street foods, Chatamari provides a satisfying meal while still maintaining its traditional roots. The rice flour base creates a unique texture that is both light and flavorful, allowing the toppings to shine without overpowering the dish.
Travelers exploring what to eat in Kathmandu often appreciate Chatamari because it offers an authentic taste of local culture. While momo and dal bhat are famous throughout Nepal, Chatamari remains closely associated with the heritage of the Kathmandu Valley.
Many traditional restaurants in Patan, Bhaktapur, Kirtipur, and central Kathmandu specialize in Newari cuisine and serve excellent versions of Chatamari. Watching the dish being prepared is often part of the experience, as skilled cooks spread the batter and carefully arrange the toppings.
For food enthusiasts interested in exploring Kathmandu local food, Chatamari offers an ideal combination of tradition, flavor, and cultural significance. It remains one of the most beloved dishes in the valley and a strong contender for the title of best food in Kathmandu.
Yomari – Kathmandu’s Most Famous Traditional Sweet
No guide to the best food in Kathmandu would be complete without including Yomari, one of Nepal’s most iconic traditional desserts. This unique sweet treat is deeply connected to Newari culture and remains one of the most cherished foods in the Kathmandu Valley.
Yomari is a steamed dumpling made from rice flour dough and filled with sweet ingredients such as chaku (traditional molasses), sesame seeds, coconut, or sweetened mixtures. The dumpling is shaped like a fish or teardrop, making it instantly recognizable.
The history of Yomari dates back hundreds of years and is closely associated with the Newar community. The dish is especially important during Yomari Punhi, a festival celebrated during the full moon after the rice harvest season. During this time, families prepare large quantities of Yomari and share them with relatives, neighbors, and friends.
Many locals consider Yomari one of the best food in Kathmandu because it represents both culinary tradition and cultural heritage. Unlike modern desserts that are available year-round, Yomari remains deeply connected to seasonal celebrations and community traditions.
Yomari
The sweet filling creates a delightful contrast with the soft rice flour shell. Chaku-filled Yomari is particularly popular due to its rich caramel-like flavor, while sesame-filled versions provide a nutty sweetness that many people enjoy.
In recent years, restaurants and bakeries have introduced innovative versions featuring chocolate, fruits, and other modern ingredients. However, traditional recipes remain the most popular among locals seeking authentic Kathmandu local food.
For visitors interested in experiencing traditional food in Kathmandu, Yomari offers a unique opportunity to taste a dish that has been enjoyed for generations. It also provides insight into the cultural and agricultural traditions of the Kathmandu Valley.
Whether sampled during Yomari Punhi or enjoyed at a traditional Newari restaurant, this beloved dessert continues to hold a special place in Nepalese cuisine. Its cultural importance and distinctive flavor make it one of the best food in Kathmandu for anyone with a sweet tooth.
Bara – A Popular Newari Snack Worth Trying
Among the many hidden gems of Kathmandu local food, Bara is one of the most delicious and underrated dishes. While international visitors often focus on momo and dal bhat, locals know that Bara is an essential part of Newari cuisine and one of the best food in Kathmandu.
Bara is a savory lentil pancake made primarily from black lentils that have been soaked, ground into a paste, and seasoned with spices. The batter is then cooked on a flat pan until golden brown and slightly crisp on the outside while remaining soft inside.
One of the reasons Bara is so popular is its simplicity. Despite using relatively few ingredients, it delivers rich flavors and satisfying textures. Traditional Bara is vegetarian, but many versions include eggs or minced meat for additional flavor and protein.
Bara is commonly served during festivals, celebrations, and family gatherings. In Newar households, it is often prepared as part of larger feasts alongside other traditional dishes such as choila, beaten rice, and pickles.
Bara
The dish has become increasingly popular among travelers seeking authentic traditional food in Kathmandu. Unlike heavily commercialized foods, Bara remains closely connected to local culinary traditions and is often prepared using recipes passed down through generations.
Nutritionally, Bara is also impressive. The lentils provide protein, fiber, and essential nutrients, making it both delicious and filling. Many vegetarians appreciate Bara as one of the most satisfying meat-free options available in Kathmandu.
Visitors exploring food markets and Newari restaurants throughout the Kathmandu Valley will frequently encounter freshly prepared Bara. It is often served hot with spicy pickles, chutneys, or accompanying side dishes.
For anyone creating a list of the best food in Kathmandu, Bara deserves serious consideration. Its cultural significance, nutritional value, and distinctive flavor make it one of the city’s most memorable culinary experiences.
Choila – Kathmandu’s Famous Spicy Grilled Meat Dish
Among all examples of best food in Kathmandu, Choila is often considered one of the boldest and most flavorful dishes in the city. A cornerstone of Newari cuisine, Choila is especially popular among those who enjoy spicy food and rich smoky flavors.
Traditionally, Choila is made from grilled buffalo meat, although chicken, duck, and mutton versions are also available. The meat is roasted over an open flame, then mixed with garlic, ginger, mustard oil, chili peppers, coriander, and various local spices. This combination creates an intense flavor profile that is both spicy and aromatic.
Choila has long been a favorite at festivals, community gatherings, and family celebrations throughout the Kathmandu Valley. It is commonly served with beaten rice, pickles, and other Newari dishes as part of a larger feast.
One reason Choila is frequently listed among the best food in Kathmandu is its distinctive preparation method. The grilling process adds a smoky depth that sets it apart from many other Nepalese meat dishes. Combined with fresh herbs and spices, the result is a dish that leaves a lasting impression.
Choila
For travelers looking for authentic Kathmandu local food, Choila offers a true taste of Newari culinary traditions. It reflects the community’s love of bold flavors and carefully balanced spice combinations.
Modern restaurants sometimes introduce creative twists on the classic recipe, but traditional Choila remains the preferred choice for most locals. The original version continues to be celebrated as one of the finest examples of traditional food in Kathmandu.
Food enthusiasts often pair Choila with local beverages and other Newari specialties to create a complete dining experience. Many visitors who try it once find themselves returning for another serving before leaving Kathmandu.
Its combination of history, flavor, and cultural significance has secured Choila’s place among the best food in Kathmandu, making it an essential dish for anyone seeking an authentic culinary adventure.
Thukpa – Himalayan Comfort Food Loved in Kathmandu
Among the many dishes that compete for the title of best food in Kathmandu, Thukpa stands out as one of the most comforting and satisfying meals, especially during the colder months. Originating from the Himalayan regions of Tibet, Thukpa has become a beloved part of Kathmandu local food and is widely available throughout the city.
Thukpa is a hearty noodle soup made with vegetables, meat, herbs, and flavorful broth. Depending on the recipe, it may contain chicken, buffalo meat, mutton, or simply fresh vegetables. The rich broth and soft noodles create a warming meal that is perfect after a long day of sightseeing or trekking.
Kathmandu’s strong cultural connections with Tibetan communities have helped make Thukpa one of the city’s most popular foods. Many Tibetan restaurants and family-run eateries prepare authentic versions that closely resemble traditional Himalayan recipes.
One reason Thukpa ranks among the best food in Kathmandu is its versatility. Restaurants often offer multiple variations ranging from mild vegetable soups to spicy meat-filled bowls packed with flavor. Travelers can choose a version that suits their taste preferences while still enjoying an authentic Himalayan dining experience.
Thukpa
The dish is particularly popular during winter when temperatures in Kathmandu can become chilly, especially during mornings and evenings. A steaming bowl of Thukpa provides both nourishment and comfort, making it a favorite among locals and visitors alike.
In addition to its delicious flavor, Thukpa is often appreciated for its nutritional value. The combination of vegetables, protein, herbs, and broth creates a balanced meal that is both filling and healthy.
For travelers searching for what to eat in Kathmandu, Thukpa offers a different experience compared to momo or Newari cuisine. It highlights the cultural diversity of the Kathmandu Valley and showcases the influence of neighboring Himalayan communities.
Whether enjoyed in a traditional Tibetan restaurant in Boudhanath or a small local café in Thamel, Thukpa remains one of the best food in Kathmandu and an essential dish for anyone exploring the city’s culinary landscape.
Sel Roti – Nepal’s Traditional Rice Doughnut
When discussing the best food in Kathmandu, Sel Roti deserves special recognition as one of Nepal’s most iconic traditional foods. This unique rice-based delicacy is especially associated with festivals, family gatherings, and celebrations throughout the country.
Sel Roti is often described as a Nepali rice doughnut, although its texture and preparation differ significantly from Western-style doughnuts. Made from rice flour, sugar, milk, and spices, the batter is carefully poured into hot oil in a circular shape and fried until golden brown.
One reason Sel Roti is considered among the best food in Kathmandu is its deep cultural significance. The dish plays an important role during major festivals such as Dashain and Tihar, when families prepare large batches and share them with relatives and neighbors.
The crispy outer layer and soft interior create a unique texture that makes Sel Roti instantly recognizable. Its mildly sweet flavor allows it to be enjoyed on its own or paired with yogurt, tea, curries, and other traditional dishes.
Sel Roti
Visitors exploring traditional food in Kathmandu will often encounter Sel Roti at local markets, roadside stalls, and family-owned bakeries. During festival seasons, the aroma of freshly fried Sel Roti fills neighborhoods across the Kathmandu Valley.
The preparation process requires skill and practice. Many families take pride in passing down Sel Roti recipes through generations, preserving an important aspect of Nepalese culinary heritage.
Unlike many modern snacks, Sel Roti remains strongly connected to family traditions and cultural celebrations. This connection helps explain why it continues to hold a special place in the hearts of Nepalese people.
Travelers searching for authentic Kathmandu local food often appreciate Sel Roti because it provides a genuine taste of Nepalese culture. It is not simply a snack but a symbol of hospitality, tradition, and celebration.
For anyone compiling a list of the best food in Kathmandu, Sel Roti is an essential addition and one of the most memorable traditional foods visitors can experience.
Sekuwa – Nepal’s Favorite Grilled Meat Dish
If you ask locals about the best food in Kathmandu, many will quickly mention Sekuwa. This flavorful grilled meat dish is one of Nepal’s most popular street foods and a favorite choice for evening meals, social gatherings, and celebrations.
Sekuwa consists of marinated meat that is grilled over charcoal or open flames. Common varieties include chicken, buffalo, pork, mutton, and even fish. The meat is seasoned with a mixture of traditional spices, herbs, garlic, ginger, and mustard oil before being cooked to perfection.
One reason Sekuwa is regarded as one of the best food in Kathmandu is its smoky flavor. The grilling process creates a rich aroma and distinctive taste that sets it apart from many other meat dishes.
Throughout Kathmandu, visitors can find Sekuwa restaurants ranging from simple roadside eateries to well-known specialty establishments. Many locals enjoy gathering with friends and family over plates of freshly grilled Sekuwa, making it an important part of the city’s social culture.
The dish is often served with onions, cucumber, tomatoes, spicy chutneys, and beaten rice. These accompaniments balance the bold flavors of the meat and create a complete meal.
Sekuwa
Sekuwa has become increasingly popular among tourists seeking authentic Kathmandu local food. Unlike international fast food, it provides a direct connection to Nepalese culinary traditions while offering flavors that appeal to a wide range of tastes.
Different regions of Nepal have developed their own styles of Sekuwa, but Kathmandu remains one of the best places to sample a variety of preparations. Many restaurants take pride in their secret marinades and grilling techniques.
For meat lovers exploring what to eat in Kathmandu, Sekuwa is a must-try dish. Its combination of smoky flavor, traditional spices, and cultural significance makes it one of the most satisfying culinary experiences in the city.
Without question, Sekuwa earns its place among the best food in Kathmandu and remains one of Nepal’s most beloved grilled specialties.
Laphing – Kathmandu’s Trendiest Street Food Sensation
Over the past decade, few foods have become as popular among young people as Laphing. Once a relatively niche Tibetan snack, it has transformed into one of the most talked-about examples of Kathmandu street food and is now frequently included in lists of the best food in Kathmandu.
Laphing originated in Tibet and consists of cold mung bean or wheat starch noodles served with spicy sauces, garlic, vinegar, soy sauce, and various seasonings. The noodles have a unique jelly-like texture that distinguishes them from traditional noodle dishes.
The popularity of Laphing in Kathmandu has grown rapidly thanks to social media, food bloggers, and word-of-mouth recommendations. Areas such as Boudhanath and Thamel have become famous for serving authentic Laphing, attracting both locals and tourists.
One reason Laphing has become one of the best food in Kathmandu is its bold flavor profile. The combination of spicy, tangy, savory, and slightly numbing flavors creates a memorable eating experience.
Laphing
Modern variations include cheese Laphing, chicken Laphing, and other creative versions that cater to changing tastes. However, traditional recipes remain highly popular among those seeking authentic Himalayan flavors.
Laphing is particularly popular among students and young professionals because it is affordable, flavorful, and easy to enjoy as a quick snack. Many vendors prepare it fresh in front of customers, adding to its appeal.
For travelers interested in exploring Kathmandu local food, Laphing offers an opportunity to experience the city’s evolving food culture. While rooted in Tibetan traditions, it has become a uniquely Kathmandu phenomenon.
The rise of Laphing demonstrates how Kathmandu continues to embrace both traditional and modern culinary influences. It represents the city’s ability to adapt while preserving cultural connections.
Today, Laphing is widely recognized as one of the most exciting examples of best food in Kathmandu, especially for adventurous eaters looking to try something different.
Juju Dhau – The King of Yogurt
No list of the best food in Kathmandu would be complete without Juju Dhau, Nepal’s most famous yogurt. Often called the “King of Yogurt,” this traditional dairy delicacy originates from nearby Bhaktapur and has become one of the most sought-after foods in the Kathmandu Valley.
Juju Dhau is made using buffalo milk and a traditional fermentation process that gives it a rich, creamy texture and naturally sweet flavor. Unlike ordinary yogurt, Juju Dhau is noticeably thicker and smoother, making it a favorite dessert among both locals and visitors.
The name “Juju Dhau” comes from the Newari language and translates roughly to “King Yogurt.” According to local tradition, the dish was historically prepared for royalty and special occasions, contributing to its prestigious reputation.
One reason Juju Dhau is considered among the best food in Kathmandu is its exceptional quality. Producers in Bhaktapur continue to use traditional methods that have been refined over generations. The yogurt is typically served in clay pots, which help maintain its flavor and texture.
Visitors exploring traditional food in Kathmandu often make a special trip to Bhaktapur specifically to taste authentic Juju Dhau. The experience is considered an essential part of discovering the culinary heritage of the Kathmandu Valley.
The yogurt is commonly enjoyed as a dessert, snack, or accompaniment to festival meals. It is especially popular during celebrations, religious events, and family gatherings.
In addition to its delicious taste, Juju Dhau is valued for its nutritional benefits. Rich in protein, calcium, and probiotics, it provides a healthy and refreshing option for travelers.
For anyone searching for what to eat in Kathmandu, Juju Dhau offers a perfect ending to a traditional Nepalese meal. Its cultural significance, creamy texture, and distinctive flavor have earned it a well-deserved reputation as one of the best food in Kathmandu.